\” Chinese Foreigners, Foreigners Chinese Installation \”;
\” men\’s clothing like women like women ，女子服飾像男”；
“貧效富，富效娼，閨閣名媛不避服妖之目，高門貴婦時有惹目之衣”
……
借諸舊報刊上這些形象描繪，
民國初年廣州女子的服飾風尚熱熱鬧鬧地鋪面而來。
They toss the tightly taboos of thousands of years of jackets behind their heads,
abandon the traditional aesthetic standards of \”cut shoulders, thin waist, and flat chest\”,
P>
Show the pink neck, snow wrist and proud curve bravely.
A history of a modern woman in Guangzhou,
It is their get rid of many imprisonment and gradually get it History of personality and self -growth .
Among them, Miss Xiguan, born in the room of the wealthy household,
Because of the early acceptance of the European wind and rain,
In the tide of fashion.
Let us slowly open this Miss Xiguan to change the clothes,
re -reflect on the living history of lively and fragrant.
<img src = \"https://p3- sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn- I-tjoges91tu/syauhq75akioz-tt- orbeb:gif.jpeg?_8558 &From=a RTICLE.PC_Detail & LK3S = 953192F4 & X-EXPIRES = 1739333977 & X-Signature = HNFQ8J%2BWGA2OAQIFiyhlshjiyls%3D \"/
The change of women\’s clothing in the late Qing Dynasty and early Republic of China (from right to left). The clothes of the two women on the left are common women\’s clothes in the early Republic of China. In Zhang Ailing\’s words, \”Established in the early Republic of China, the fashion also showed unprecedented innocence, lightness and joy.Xian, revealing a large jade wrist. The waist of the short jacket is extremely small. \”(Source: Information Times)
▌ During the late Qing Dynasty
Fully decorative, women are more like hams /P>
Opening the pictorial during the late Qing Dynasty, it was found that the wealthy woman on the street was a big news that could be headlined. The news of watching a woman in white \”, a wealthy lady wearing a white dress and holding a checker, but bought something in the 18th area, actually attracted a large number of onlookers. Finally, the police officer dispatched it. It can be seen that it is not easy for Miss Fortune to go out. \”Shu Da Li\”, its clothes also follow the strict ritual specifications. After the founding of the Qing Dynasty, because \”men do not obey from women\”, until the late Qing Dynasty, the clothes of the Han family still maintained the heritage of the Ming Dynasty. The export paintings of the three -line period are the excellent sources of information for our observing Miss Xiguan\’s clothes in the Qing Dynasty. The rich pleated skirt is extremely common. Each thin fold is also embroidered with exquisite patterns with golden threads, which shows the extravagance of workmanship. The most stringent test is that the girls who teach well, the pleated skirts are not as movable as the straps, but are limited to the lightest slap. The little jasper who is not accustomed to wear a skirt makes people feel surprised when he walks. \”Think about it, the ladies who hidden deep in the Grandma Gate in Xiguan House stood up from the desk embroidery case. /p><img src=\"https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn-i-tjoges91tu/SyAUui12wKcSiu~tplv-tt-origin-web:gif.jpeg?_iz=58558&from=ar ticle.pc_detail&lk3s= 953192F4 & X-EXPIRES = 1739333977 & X-Signature = TMARIIHWBL%2fnh4p2ino HDRZTMPO%3D \"/
The old photos taken at the time. > The most impressive impression of Miss Xiguan in the late Qing Dynasty is that the decoration is complicated and graceful. This kind of inlaid embroidery technology is more than the more tunnel, the more beautiful, the painting in exportedOn the top, Miss Xiguan, who was wearing a \”a few inlays and rolling\”, is not uncommon on the skirt. Surprisingly, the protagonists of these paintings seem to be clothes, not people. The girls with painting are similar, and their wide gown and long skirts are deeply hidden their bodies. Originally, according to the traditional aesthetic standards, women always take quietness as the beauty, and shoulders, thin waist and peaceful chests are king. success.
▌ In the early years of the Republic of China
Chinese and Western co -wear, men are not unusual as women
Because Xiguan is a rich place for the prosperity of foreign trade, even in the late Qing Dynasty when the clothing level is strict, some of the more curious and brave girls began to accept the beauty of European wind and rain, and their clothes became foreign. According to the memories of the British people who have arrived in Guangzhou in the mid -19th century, he saw many girls wearing European -style shoes and a bright Mancher -style headscarf on his head, a handkerchief shape, and folding the corner. \”I think the European girl\’s European chemical habit is worth noting.\” Ren said.
After the 1911 Revolution, the strict costume taboos of the Qing Dynasty were cleiled. As the atmosphere opened, Miss Xiguan began to step out of the deep girlfriend, walked to the street, walked into a department store and dancer. Take off the wide robe gown, put on a fitted skirt, show a slender waist, and some bolder put on the cloak, vest, coat, and suit. For the first time, they got the right to choose clothing, and they also expressed their aesthetic taste and enthusiasm for life through these choices.
Old photos of the early years of the Republic of China. The tops of the two girls were all narrow and long, and the tops were long skirts under them. This was the most popular style of tops and lower skirts at that time. This style of high-end women\’s dress is said to be influenced by students studying in Japan at that time. It is a Qing Dynasty costume that was used in the Outlook area, and is called \”civilized new decoration.\” (Source: Information Times)
In feudal society, women\’s pants can be worn around their skirts, and it is disrespectful to wear pants to see people. After the Revolution of 1911, Miss Xigu put on her pants. In September 1911, the Ministry of Education issued the \”School Uniform Ordinance\” to stipulate that female studentsFrom \”skirts above secondary schools, skirts are black\”, but wearing skirts to practice gymnastics are inconvenient. Many schools use short jacket narrow pants as \”clothing\”. This kind of tights are not only easy to walk, but also outline the body curve, and will soon be favored. As the earliest girl who was educated, Ms. Xiguan did not allow this fashion trend. Many people not only wear in class, they also wear them after class, and even wear tight clothes and pants. They walk out of the school gate. Even if they are accused of \”behavior, socks scarlet, pants will not hide their tens\”, they don\’t care. The extensive popularity of tight pants, even a panic of the official, and even the education authorities issued a decree and rectified it, but the results were very small. not RTICLE.PC_Detail & LK3S = 953192F4 & X-EXPIRES = 1739333977 & X-Signature = YC4QCZULCHRTLJW 5NK4MIZO8XS%3D \”/
\” Men and Women\’s Equivalence \”is one of the most popular imports in the early years of the Republic of China. It\’s Female men\’s clothing has become another fashion that cannot be ignored , dovetails, peaked caps, civilized battles … all have become new pets for ideological radicals. For a while, women dressed as men are frequently seen on the street, making the old -fashioned person shook their head and lamented, \”Women are like no skirts, and they are not confusing.\” It became a very good educator and social activist. She is a typical \”men\’s clothing enthusiast\”, often in suit and leather, appearing in various public places to show the courage of \”who says women are not as good as men.\”
▌ Around May 4th
Civilized new outfits are popular, high heels are new pets
In the era when the concept and the inherent tradition were fiercely collided, \”civilization\” became a vocabulary that was intoxicating. Cumbersome decoration, simple and elegant short -jacket black skirt, is called \”new civilization\”.
Open some old photos of some church middle schools in Guangzhou in the 1920s. The girls inside were washed the lead. The hips, narrow waist, and horn -shaped sleeves are exposed to a fiber wrist. In the early old photos, the black skirts were mostly long and ankles. Over time, the skirt gradually became shorter, and some just stamped the knees slightly, and boldly exposed the small.leg.
In 1921, girls from Lingnan Middle School took a photo, wearing all kinds of civilized new clothes.
In terms of clothing, Miss Xigu, who had her hairpin, ring, bracelet and earring, soon had a new look, which was a self-contained water pendant and eye lens. Putting a self-contained pendant on the lapel is not only a learning need, but also a fashionable decoration. Their fascination of eyeglass, this new fashion has caused some newspaper reporters to thorn: \”Try to visit the eyeglass shops in the mountains, men and women It is a mess, its door is like a market, and it is profitable. Those who say that the new boy is good at raising his eyes, and his vision can tell the clouds.\” (The seventh issue of \”Current Affairs News\” in 1912).
Ms. Xiguan from the 1920s.
Stockings are another imported product favored by Miss Xiguan. In department stores such as Xianqi, Zhenguang, and Daxin, there should be as many colors of silk threads as possible, and even transparent. The beauty and lightness of silk threads are obviously beyond the reach of the squid. As a result, since the \”entry\” Guangzhou in the early 1920s, it has become popular. Since wearing stockings, the past embroidered shoes look so earthy, high -heeled leather shoes can show the style of new women. So, \”Women\’s boots sound like flying, and people have to feel moved: \”Women were so gentle and cheerful in the past, and women are so cheerful today.\” The old shadow of \”the soundless\” after walking in the Great House in Xiguan, It is already impossible to chase.
▌ Last century In the 1930s
Cheongsam lines with curve beauty, the higher the slit, the more fashionable
When it comes to cheongsam, we will naturally associate it with \”Beauty of Oriental Women\’s Beauty\”.Yiyi strikes or beautiful, or light -quality cheongsam, I do not know how many people are in the tenderness and style of the women\’s women. As everyone knows, this soft and style is the product of the improved cheongsam in the middle of the 1920s. Prior to this, the cheongsam was also long and wide, thick and clumsy, almost comparable to noodle bags.
\” Fantastic Year \”stills. In the play, Maggie Cheong, a beautiful or light -quality cheongsam in the play, does not know how many people are talking about the tenderness and style of the women of the Republic of China.
At the beginning of the last century, the reason why women looked at cheongsam is not beauty, but because of the psychological needs of \”equality between men and women\”. In the original sense, the cheongsam was the national costume of Manchu. The difference between men and women was not much different. They were all \”one -piece\” robes and kept covering the heel. You can only \”jackets and skirts\”, and you must not wear robes like men. When the west wind is getting east, when the feminine is getting up, urban women will naturally try to try the robe and horse gowns to challenge the authority of the man.
The value pursuit of \”equality between men and women\” is too abstract, and soon let the girls\’ hobbies of beauty and fashion. In the early 1930s, the fashion stores in Guangzhou began to design tight cheongsam with waist -warming, and can be tailor -made according to the needs of customers. The straight cheongsam began to withdraw from the rivers and lakes. The velvet, the light clouds … Miss Xiguan once again stood at the forefront of fashion. On them, the collar of the cheongsam gradually opened, the length gradually shrunk to the knee, and the sleeves became narrower and narrower. Originally, the slit of the cheongs was only a few inches, but who is accurate? Within two years, the slit became higher and higher, the waist was getting thinner and thinner, the sleeves became shorter and shorter, and finally the sleeveless cheongsam was very popular.
In the 1930s, Guangzhou wearing a cheongsam fashion woman. At that time, the cheongsam had perfectly outlined the body curve.
In the middle of the 1930s, wearing wearing Miss Xiguan of the low -necked cheongsam has become a scenery of Changdi Commercial Street. \”Yan Miaofang also drove Ford\’s sedan to the Aiqun Building to dance and stagnate. They have a soft cheongsam on their bodies, which have become the most lively memories of old Guangzhou.
Text/Guangzhou Daily · Xinhuacheng Reporter: Wang Yuehua Guangzhou Daily · Xinhua City Editor: Lin Weilin
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